Czech Greenways Day 4

Národní park Podyjí

Set off early into Národní park Podyjí, and promptly got lost trying to find the trailhead. This enchanting forest was the first true singletrack of the trip. Stoked!!! I was slightly concerned with the 32c tires of the hybrid loaner beast but they’d proved suitable so far and didn’t really disappoint in the forest, where most of the singletrack was smooth or close to it, and the outlying fireroad stuff was just more of the same. There were a few walk-a-bike climbs and great vistas.




After 15km or so of lots of hilly forest without a single gnome or hobbit sighting, I came to the village of Čížov to view a reconstructed section of the Iron Curtain.


Exhausted at this point, I began to climb the “hill” out of the remaining (15k?) and really started to feel depleted. So much that I turned around and returned to the only restaurant I saw open in the village. I made a random selection based on the word for french fries that I recognized and got this delicacy. Smažený sýr!


Calories be calories, yo. Onward and forward and upwards, soldier.

After making it out of the forest I descended the wildly twisty road towards Vranov nad Dyjí. What goes down must go up, yet again, I thought. Sure enough, and much to my dismay, I found myself climbing out of the town some several thousand feet before I realized I was going THE WRONG WAY. I stopped to check the map, the sky was gloomy doom, the road was not right, and I clearly remember shouting the loudest F U C K ever uttered, and it reverberated though the high heavens louder than THOR’s hammer. The vocalization of my angst merely echoed back to me, and I realized that I am completely and utterly alone in this motherfucker of a universe. This is catharsis. It was good.

After recomposing, descending and reascending in the correct direction, passing the glorius Státní zámek.


I am well spent after all this climbing, the sun is sitting lower, and I still have something like 45km to reach Slavonice. So off I go, hills be damned. The second wind really kicks in and I feel great and ride fast through the undulating countryside, through little empty villages, towards food and shelter.